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Jan.2, 2005 - Jan.9, 2005 |
The Alpini arrive in Trieste
Toronto's Gino Vatri leads Canadian delegation celebrating armed corps
By Antonio Maglio
Originally Published: 2004-05-30
The Counts of Maniago own a splendid palace in downtown Udine, on Via Viola. About 15 years ago, three brothers (Enzo, Mario, and Maurizio Mancini) leased the palace stables, renovated them in depth, and created thus one of the most picturesque taverns in town, the Vecchio Stallo (Old Stable).
"Here, people come for eating and drinking, not for snacking," clarifies Maurizio. That's true. The food and drinks here make no concession to dubiously modern yet fashionable gastronomic innovations. For instance, at Vecchio Stallo only cash is accepted, and no credit cards ("except for trumps," says a sign near the cash register); if one wants to discover the original tastes of this land, however, Mario (the chef) is the right person to trust.
Time and fame have turned the Vecchio Stallo into a sanctuary of good life. The three Mancinis added their own qualities to the mix: a measured courtesy, bestowed with equanimity on front-page VIPs (many patronize this establishment, including politicians and actors) and commoners alike.
No frivolity, either: the place sports chequered tablecloths, old copper pots hanging from the ceilings, and horse harnesses and photos of old Friuli lining the walls, mixed with framed aphorisms that enclose the philosophy of this cove of good lifers.
Some examples: "It took us a lot of talent to grow old without growing up," which is a sort of calling card. There are recommendations ("Laughing is healthy: do it now, while it's still free"), reflections ("He who smiles when something goes wrong has thought of someone else to blame"), and even a shred of residual male chauvinism ("In love one needs luck, but a nice ass does no harm either").
Well, the premise served as an introduction to the place where for a few days many Alpini (from Friuli and elsewhere) warmed up for their trip to Trieste. They ate, drank, discussed, and sang here, not just because food, wine and ambience were inviting, but also because one of the three Mancini brothers, Enzo, is a retired Maresciallo of the Alpini. Of course, if a fellow alpine trooper is working behind the counter, his old buddies won't go anywhere else.
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