The Alpini arrive in Trieste

Toronto's Gino Vatri leads Canadian delegation celebrating armed corps

The Counts of Maniago own a splendid palace in downtown Udine, on Via Viola. About 15 years ago, three brothers (Enzo, Mario, and Maurizio Mancini) leased the palace stables, renovated them in depth, and created thus one of the most picturesque taverns in town, the Vecchio Stallo (Old Stable).
"Here, people come for eating and drinking, not for snacking," clarifies Maurizio. That's true. The food and drinks here make no concession to dubiously modern yet fashionable gastronomic innovations. For instance, at Vecchio Stallo only cash is accepted, and no credit cards ("except for trumps," says a sign near the cash register); if one wants to discover the original tastes of this land, however, Mario (the chef) is the right person to trust.
Time and fame have turned the Vecchio Stallo into a sanctuary of good life. The three Mancinis added their own qualities to the mix: a measured courtesy, bestowed with equanimity on front-page VIPs (many patronize this establishment, including politicians and actors) and commoners alike.
No frivolity, either: the place sports chequered tablecloths, old copper pots hanging from the ceilings, and horse harnesses and photos of old Friuli lining the walls, mixed with framed aphorisms that enclose the philosophy of this cove of good lifers.
Some examples: "It took us a lot of talent to grow old without growing up," which is a sort of calling card. There are recommendations ("Laughing is healthy: do it now, while it's still free"), reflections ("He who smiles when something goes wrong has thought of someone else to blame"), and even a shred of residual male chauvinism ("In love one needs luck, but a nice ass does no harm either").
Well, the premise served as an introduction to the place where for a few days many Alpini (from Friuli and elsewhere) warmed up for their trip to Trieste. They ate, drank, discussed, and sang here, not just because food, wine and ambience were inviting, but also because one of the three Mancini brothers, Enzo, is a retired Maresciallo of the Alpini. Of course, if a fellow alpine trooper is working behind the counter, his old buddies won't go anywhere else.
"However," says Enzo Mancini, "in January I retired also from the Vecchio Stallo, because, at 60 years of age, I've decided to do only the things that I enjoy." One of the things he enjoys is organizing groups of former Alpini who want to attend the National Parades.
It was not a cakewalk for Maresciallo Mancini, even though he had only to deal with a fraction of the organizing work, shared among various sections of ANA (Associazione Nazionale Alpini). Here are some figures: from Udine, chosen as rally point, at least 100 coach buses and some 15 special trains left for Trieste. They carried a part of the 10,000 Friulian Alpini who paraded. For days, the region's two dailies (Udine's Messaggero Veneto and Trieste's Il Piccolo) published updates on parking lots, roads to follow, assembly points; maps showing emergency aid stations; warned people ad nauseam about how hard it would be for them to reach Trieste on that weekend: the town had already been joyously stormed by the Alpini. People could also forget about finding a room in any hotel or pension: everything within a 100-km radius was sold out.
Maresciallo Mancini, what is the meaning of the National Parades for you?
"First of all, we must keep in mind that anyone who's ever worn the black-feathered hat even for one day remains an Alpino forever..."
Why is that?
"Because he acquires a sense of belonging that goes beyond simple esprit de corps. That sense of belonging remains even after leaving the service, which Alpini never saw as a period of forced inactivity. The Alpini Corps enlists people who live in the mountains, who know and respect and love them. Life in the mountains is tough, it goes without saying. But mountaineers share strong values, beginning with solidarity. If people didn't help one another, they wouldn't resist. Friulian Alpini had their solidarity tested by two World Wars: by defending the borders of our Country, we defended our homes, our fields, and the homes and fields of our relatives and neighbours. We never stop being Alpini because our military service is a continuation of our civilian life, and vice versa. Whether wearing a uniform or civilian clothes, we have one purpose: helping others. Now, do you understand why wearing our hat for a day is enough to hook one for life?"
Very clearly. Now, what is this National Parade thing? You work at it a year in advance, and as the date draws near you get incredibly busy organizing rallies, renting coach buses and trains, preparing and distributing leaflets and tip sheets, finding out how to accommodate and feed thatmany people converging from all over Italy and the world. And all that just for parading under the sun...
"Well, this way we remind everybody of our existence. The world can crumble, but we shall be there to keep it standing..."
Isn't that a bit presumptuous?
"No, people want to be reassured, and we are aware of being reassuring. Judging from how we are welcomed, we think that people got the message. I took part in innumerable parades, always encountering the same spirit. Everywhere. Even in towns with no Alpini traditions, such as Bari or Catania, where we got a really priceless welcome. In Catania, an elderly gentleman approached my group and asked us to let him parade among us. We let him in, and afterwards he couldn't stop thanking us for an unforgettable experience, as he called it, because he had been fascinated by the two key points in our Parade..."
Which points?
"The first one is the getting together with old comrades, always a joyful moment, and the other is the Parade itself, when we send out our message and our values..."
Both these moments are part of your legend: your festive meetings - including the drinking - and the image of quiet strength that you give out when you parade. Is it disrespectful if one mentions your drinking?
"Not at all. An Alpino never retreats in front of a glass of wine: one for each friend he meets. But at a Parade we meet a lot of friends and celebrate with all of them. This is why our Parade is a miracle that repeats itself every year..."
What do you mean?
"Our big celebration happens on the day before the Parade, on Saturday. That's when the buses, the trains, the groups arrive; when people meet old friends, hugs them, recall the good old days. It's part of what we are. The celebration continues until late: eating, drinking, until the wee hours. Several of us go to sleep after paying significant tribute to the national winemaking industry, frankly, and it would be easy to expect them to spend the Sunday recovering, and not parading. But no, on the following morning all of us, and I mean 'all', are sober and on time at the assembly points. That's the miracle that repeats itself every year. Also, let me remind you that our people have been in the front lines of war, but also of every national disaster, such as the earthquakes in Friuli and in Irpinia. We won everybody's unconditional admiration, in Italy and abroad."
Due to a fortunate coincidence, our conversation included Gino Vatri, president of the Alpini of North America, who came from Toronto with some 70 comrades for the Parade and stopped in Udine to greet some old friends.
There are "at least 30,000," Alpini in Canada says Vatri. Vatri and Mancini had never met before, yet they seemed to share a long acquaintance. "That's how it is for us. None of us is a stranger to any other. Call it camaraderie, esprit de corps, sense of belonging. Words are nice and so are images, but truth is that we people of the mountains can feel when someone is made with the same mould. When we meet one, we need no introduction." Mr. Vatri, What are Alpini most proud of?
"Everything, because we believe in everything we do. In wartime and peacetime, we never spare ourselves. Before Civil Protection was established in Italy, we filled that gap; we were the first to arrive in Friuli after the 1976 earthquake, digging among the rubble and reinforcing what hadn't crumbled. In war, we died but stood our ground, and the story of the Julia Division is evidence of that. Enzo Mancini is right when he says that the whole world admires us. May I make an example?"
Please do.
"After the Friuli quake, $57 million were collected in the U.S. Do you know where that money went? It was given to the Alpini, considered as the only intermediary with the victims of the quake. In Canada, with the collaboration of the Famee Furlane, we launched a fundraising drive. In a matter of days, over $2.5 million were raised from private donors, and the Canadian government matched that sum: overall, $5 million. If we consider the population of the two countries, Canada gave just as much as the united States."
What are your conclusions?
"Just one: all this, and more, was possible because people trust us, both in Italy and abroad. However, trust is not given freely: it must be deserved."
Is that the reason for the great affection surrounding your Parades?
"Yes. We have deserved that affection. Let me also add a final note, something few people know. Everything we do - before, during, and after our Parades - we do for free. Maresciallo Mancini has been running around for weeks on his own. My comrades and I paid for our tip from Toronto to Italy out of our own pockets. We are no exception. All of us do the same whenever we go anywhere. ANA, our association, receives donations and contributions, and gives every last penny to hospitals, senior homes, kindergartens, and Parade organizations. Every dollar is accounted for. We are happy with this state of things, so we gladly pay for our trips. Believe me: that money is well spent, because getting together is a great joy, and joy makes you live longer."

Publication Date: 2004-05-30
Story Location: http://tandemnews.com/viewstory.php?storyid=4031