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Oct. 17 - Oct. 22, 2004 |
Forty Years of Costume-Making in Italian Cinema
Famed Sartoria Farani celebrated in unique Roma exhibition titled Tra I Vestimenti
By by Carmela Piccione
Originally Published: 2004-05-16
A great exhibition in Rome is celebrating the long life of Sartoria Farani, over 40 years in business among cinema, theatre, music, ballet, and television. The trademark of this historic workshop, founded in 1962 in Rome, is its inventiveness, art, fantasy, and sophisticated craftsmanship. It's been a veritable forge of artists, wizards of painting, colour, and costumes; untiring creators, experimenters of unequalled art.
The exhibition displays over 200 dresses and suits, designed by Danilo Donati (three Oscars for his costumes for Franco Zeffirelli's Romeo and Juliet and Federico Fellini's The Clowns and Casanova), Roberto Capucci, Santuzza Calì, Ezio Frigerio and Franca Squarciapino, Maurizio Millenotti, Elisabetta Montaldo, Raimonda Gaetani, Arnaldo Pomodoro, Lele Luzzati, Zaira De Vincentiis, Alessandro Ciammarughi, Luigi Perego, Giusi Giustino, Alessandro Buti... Hundreds of products bear the signature of great masters. The list is endless. Unforgettable movies and theatrical productions directed by Visconti, Pasolini, Zeffirelli, Wertmuller, Damiani, Lynch, Cobelli, Scaparro, Olmi, Ronconi, Lavia, Albertazzi, Patroni Griffi, Squarzina.
These include, for instance, The Gospel According to St. Matthew, The Taming of the Shrew starring Richard Burton and Elisabeth Taylor, Oedipus Rex, Amarcord, Roger Vadim's 1967 Barbarella, Pirates of the Caribbean: The Curse of the Black Pearl, Ferdinando e Carolina, Profession of Arms. The exhibition, prepared by Simonetta Licastro Scardino, Maria Schiavone, Clara Tosi Pamphili, and Roberto Lucifero, is an exceptional gallery of art. The dummies mesh with movie images in a surreal, poetic atmosphere.
They tell the story of Italy, of a culture of sophisticated design and creativity founded on the cross-contamination of languages, materials, fabrics, objects, and 'shapes'. An example of this are the revolutionary 'inventions' of Danilo Donati. That great costume designer was not afraid of using poor materials such as straw, wood, shells (for Silvana Mangano's dress in Pasolini's Oedipus Rex), gauze, even pasta turned into gems or embroideries, hundreds of kilograms of candies for the mosaics in Fellini's Satyricon, mountains of chick peas for marvelously credible sculptures.
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