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April 4 - April 11, 2004 |
Femininity reigned on Milan and Paris runways
Fashion industry bids farewell to Gucci Group's Tom Ford, Celine's Michael Kors and Givenchy's Julien McDonald
Originally Published: 2004-03-21
As another season drew to a close in Paris and Milan, never had the fashion industry been left with so many intriguing questions waiting for answers.
What will Tom - and his Sundance Kid, Domenico De Sole - do when they officially leave Gucci Group at the end of April? Can fashion survive without them? Who will take over designing for Yves Saint Laurent and Gucci? And will fashion's brightest star, Alexander McQueen, stay with the group?
Over at LVMH there are questions over Givenchy and Celine. The exit of the British designer Julien McDonald from Givenchy is not official but industry insiders consider it a done deal. No successor has been announced at Celine, even though the American Michael Kors has now done his last show.
The season yielded another batch of very strong collections. All of them reflected the mood of empowered femininity, with barely a pair of pants in sight, although knickerbockers have started to look surprisingly appealing, especially in bright pink velvet at Christian Lacroix.
At Louis Vuitton, Marc Jacobs sent out what looked like an ode to Vivienne Westwood in plaid with 19th century accents like ermine capelets and mini-bustle skirts. The quirkiness was offset by more conventional coats and dresses, enlivened by sequined borders and ruffled hems.
In another fine collection for Lanvin, Alber Elbaz developed his theme of the ultra-light silk dress, with the clever use of integral capes that unfolded into glamorous trains.
Soft silk dresses in appealing green and cocoa browns were also a big hit at Chloe, balanced by the key new jacket shape with a swing back and wide sleeves.
Collette Dinnigan served up one of her strongest collections yet, staying true to her signature style of curvaceous lace and rich adornment, with edgier runway styling and the use of cream and white lace and panne velvet.
At John Galliano's signature collection the theme of movement was Nomadic as models were a mixed of bag lady homeless chic, and Eastern European gypsy. They wore thick duvets pinned to their hips, cutlery and Coke cans in their massive wigs with babushkas and fedoras piled high.
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