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Feb 16 - Feb 23,2003 |
Hot designs for the contemporary male
Italian stylists unveil new line of Spring-Summer 2003 fashions during the Moda Uomo runway shows in Milan
Originally Published: 2003-02-02
Not only women are entitled to be beautiful, attractive and sexy. That's why Giorgio Armani gave his blessing to men's fashion designed to be "enhancing", displaying muscles and charm, occasionally sensational but never ridiculously so. On the closing day of Milano Moda Uomo, "King Giorgio" staged his coup de théâtre on the catwalk, mixing his main Giorgio Armani line with the Emporio Armani youth line and also abandoning jackets in favour of something more resembling a cardigan and a jersey: clinging, comfortable and very, very sexy.
Armani himself has been wearing such a garment (in blue) for some time now, and Manchester United player David Beckham, a beautiful and famous as well as fashion-aware man, took notice and inquired about it. Giorgio Armani gave him one as a gift and even decided to call it the "Beckham Jacket".
In its various versions (as long as an overcoat, without lapels and closed like a military uniform, in jersey or stretch wool, worn over a shirt with a small neck or directly on naked skin, this is the cult garment in his collection, a manifesto of male beauty.
"I felt the need," explained Armani, "to make men a little more attractive, more sensational. If we keep repeating the classics, we're done for! Maybe youngsters like to play with vintage clothes, but grown men may feel no desire to repeat the past, since they lived it already and their wardrobes include several classic suits. They want to find something new and that is what we do here. This new kind of jacket, after all, has only one thing going for it: a fabric clinging to the body, giving an air of informality even in very formal cuts. The time has come for men to look at their clothes and feel the novelty in them: research in men's fashion has just begun!"
In order to throw off the usual crowd of admirers of his creations, over half of the parade consisted in an elegant sequence of flannel shirts with sweaters casually tossed over the shoulders, low-waisted pants with elastic casing, soft blouses in embroidered velvet, and woolen underwear fit for a sailor on the Northern seas. This kind of fashion (in tones of mud brown, grey, blue and black) lies softly over hard, muscular bodies: but it is nothing like an intellectual's unstructured clothing, because it acquires the structure of a male body, emphasized by the adherence and ductility of materials.
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