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A Toast to Trade Agreements

The battle against mislabelling means no more European wine imitations in Canada

By Pier Paolo Bozzano

Very soon, although not immediately, Canadian winemakers will be forbidden the use of the traditional European names: there will be no more Valpolicellas, Chiantis, or Chablis produced in the Niagara peninsula.
In keeping of the historic agreement signed last week in Niagara Falls between Canada and the European Union, those names become taboo and DOC marks are finally recognized by our country, which opposed them for so long.
In exchange for this, the EU committed to recognizing brands and production methods of several Canadian products such as whisky or the famed Icewine.
This is "a great progress in trade relations between the EU and Canada." European Commissioner for Agriculture Franz Fischler thus saluted the bilateral agreement officially signed in Niagara Falls, offering protection to 21 names of European wines and spirits in our country.
The signature ceremony was attended by Fischler, Canada's Minister for International Trade Pierre Pettigrew, and Italy's Vice Minister for Production Activities (in charge of Foreign Trade) Adolfo Urso.
The agreement foresees three steps: right from the date of entry, the names "Bordeaux", "Chianti", "Claret", "Madeira", "Malaga", "Marsala", "Medoc", and "Moselle" will be reserved exclusively to wines produced in the respective production areas of Europe.
In regards to the names "Burgundy", "Rhein", and "Sauterne", they will be protected from December 31, 2008, and "Chablis", "Champagne", "Porto", and "Sherry" from December 31, 2013. Two years from now the Canadian market will bar the use of generic names "Grappa" and "Ouzo" for non-original products. On its part, the European Union undertakes to protect the names of two Canadian alcohols, "Rye Whisky" and "Icewine".
Coldiretti, Italy's largest association of farmers, called this agreement "a concrete step forward in the fight against mislabelling", a practice causing "damages for billions of euros to Italian farmers".
With a polemic reference to the recent failure of the World Trade Conference in Cancun, Mexico, Coldiretti remarked: "If, through bilateral discussions, our DOC and DOCG wines can be better protected, while WTO talks are stalled, we exhort the EU to start similar negotiations for the mutual recognition of our DOP and IGP food products such as 'Parmigiano Reggiano' or 'Prosciutto di Parma', subjected to unacceptable acts of international piracy." In particular, the authentic Prosciutto di Parma cannot at present be sold as such in Canada because the name was "hijacked" by a local producer who enjoys national protection.
Coldiretti also published a list of the world's most copied European wines and spirits: the Italian list includes Chianti, Lambrusco, Marsala, and Grappa.
"This agreement with Canada is all the more significant because it involves a country that in the past was among the staunch opponents of protected denominations of origin," declared minister Urso.
"In EU member states," he added, "the production of grapes and wines, oenological practice, the origins of wines and spirits, are the fruit of processes that lasted for centuries. This sector has obvious economic worth, but also social and cultural significance in the geographical areas of production. Europe attributes special value to wine products because they carry a patrimony of quality appreciated the world over. The high standards and incredible diversity of so many European wines and spirits deserve specific recognition, in defense of its origin and special quality."
"This agreement includes mutual recognition of oenological practices and treatments of wine products, and sets the conditions for each party to protect the geographical indications of wines produced in the territory of the other party," continued Urso. "This is essential not only for accessing our respective markets, but also for encouraging the development of products of ever-increasing quality on both sides of the Atlantic. The European Union is ready to accept and protect Canada's geographical denominations and to simplify registration procedures as much as possible. Other rules concerning wine certification, import and marketing specify that neither party will impose tighter restrictions than those existing on the date when the agreement comes in force."
"The agreement will be entrusted to a joint committee," concluded Urso. "We feel confident that this committee will promote constant co-operation between us for the development of trade in wines and spirits and of common rules."

Publication Date: 2003-09-28
Story Location: http://tandemnews.com/viewstory.php?storyid=3200