South Italy Feast

Olive oil, fresh vegetables and lots of fresh fish

Italian food usually ranks top as everyone's fave cuisine but Italian food isn't a homogenous thing, instead, it's a myriad of flavours resulting from the various regions and boundaries that make up the boot-shaped country.
The North versus South battle has taken on a new meaning when it comes to Italian cooking. There's a noticeable distinction between northern and southern Italian food and it's not unusual for the two to view each other's culinary fare with curiousity and initial hesitation, much as someone who is trying a completely different food for the first time. It's no wonder both northerners and southerners guard their cuisine with such pride since Italy wasn't unified as a nation until 1861.
Before unification, Austrian, French, Spanish and Arab invaders left their indelible marks on the country and today, many foods are inspired by these influences.
Italy's south is made up of Lazio, Abruzzo, Molise, Campania, Puglia, Basilicata, Sicily, Sardinia and Sicily. It is here that resourcefulness and a touch of whimsy are the major driving factors behind the cuisine.
Olive oil is a major ingredient in southern Italian cooking. The islands of Sicily and Sardinia, in particular, are home to a plethora of olive tree groves. And it's believed that it was the Arabs who brought the olive tree to these two islands centuries ago. Olive oil is a must in salad dressings, pastes, and as an essential component to meat, fish, and pasta dishes.
Citrus fruits are particularly common in Sicilian cooking. Sicilians have shown their appreciations for lemons by showcasing them in everything from appetizers to main courses to desserts and ice creams. The yellow, acidic limone is yet another example of the Arabic influence on the island.
Sweet desserts are part and parcel of Sicilian life. Cassata is a layered cake that owes its origins to the Arabs. Then there's cannoli (crisp pastry tubes filled with sweetened ricotta cheese and candies).
Calabria, the region that put the boot on the map boasts two coastlines. The result is plenty of fresh fish and seafood that are featured in many traditional recipes. Swordfish and tuna are favourites. Olives are featured in many pastes and sauces and figs are a starring attraction of many dolci. A common main course dish from this region is tiella (a macaroni casserole of vegetable).
Pecorino cheese, with its sharp taste, is a substitute for Parmesan cheese in some parts of the south. Made from sheep's milk, it is slightly more salty and tangier than Parmesan.
Lazio's most famous offering is spaghetti alla carbonara and abbacchio (milk-fed baby lamb). Molise indulges in lentils, while in Abruzzo it is common to taste saffron in many dishes, along with divolilli (tiny red chilies).
Campania has given the world spaghetti with tomatoes and basil, and spaghetti all vongole. The most famous of all its cities, Naples is responsible for Pasta Puttanesca, a fiery pasta dish flavoured with garlic and capers.
From Puglia we get orecchiette, ear-shaped pasta served with cime di rapa (turnip greens). Dishes spiced with peperoncino dominate the culinary fare from Basilicata while the Sardinian palette boasts sucking pig and lamb, pane carsu (flat bread) and honey.
When it comes to meat, southerners are particularly fond of pork and it's used in delicacies like mortadella and pancetta.
The southern palette shuns creamy sauces (a northern Italian tradition) for lighter vegetable and seafood sauces. Oregano is a featured item in many sauces.
Fish is a bigger food item than meat and it's showcased in many dishes. Sardines and anchovies are prominent. Eel, shellfish, octopus, clams and codfish are popular fare. They are utilized in zuppa pescare, a fish soup made from anything at hand and baccalá in urrido (dried codfish with tomatoes).
Eggplants are a popular vegetable in southern Italian cuisine. Another Arabic treasure, eggplants were initially believed to be poisonous but in time they were embraced by all of Italy.
Eggplants are featured in pasta dishes and an endless amount of appetizer and side dishes. For a quick and easy antipasto dish, combine eggplants with thinly sliced onions, plum tomatoes, salt, oregano, olive oil and grated Pecorino Romano cheese.
Coat a large, non-stick pan with olive oil. Sauté onions until they are wilted but not brown. Add eggplant and a bit more oil if necessary and sauté until soft and lightly browned (about 10-12 minutes). Add tomatoes, salt and oregano to taste. Mix well, cover and cook until heated through. Add the grated cheese and serve.

Publication Date: 2003-09-07
Story Location: http://tandemnews.com/viewstory.php?storyid=3117